Mountains have always felt like home to me, and the Valais region of Switzerland has to be one of the most idyllic mountain regions on earth. If you imagine classic snow-capped mountains, the image your mind conjures up is likely exactly what Valais looks like. Its 4000m peaks and vast, rugged beauty drew me in from my very first visit eight years ago. This time, I was excited to explore the area on my mountain bike, tackling the seven-stage Valais Alpine Bike route – 317 km of linked trails from Crans-Montana to Brig via the Leukerbad region, Moosalp, Grächen, Lötschental and the Val d’Anniviers valleys.

Travelling from Geneva into the heart of Valais, the road winding up to higher altitudes as tall peaks rose on either side, I began to feel an inkling of nervousness. This year has so far been a big year for racing bikes – my style of cycling event tends to be very, very long endurance rides on off-road terrain, and I had completed four ultra cycling races in just four months. My focus had been so intensely on the very time-consuming pursuit of endurance cycling that my mountain bike wasn’t getting a lot of use lately. I felt rusty, and as I looked up at the steep mountains, I wished I had spent a bit more time this spring on the technical trails.

I was riding with Myriam Saugy, a local guide and elite mountain biker who seemed to know every segment of the trail in the region. We’d never met before, but as we’re both passionate about elevating women in the outdoor industry, I knew we’d get on well. Myriam set my fears aside and instantly put me at ease on the bike. She shared her best tips for riding features unique to Valais and let me follow her back wheel to spot the best lines. Throughout the week, I gained confidence and felt braver tackling the more technical descents.

Our journey began in Crans-Montana, a resort town nestled in the heart of the Alps. The air was crisp, and the peaks surrounding us were still capped with snow despite it being high summer. The first stage of the Valais Alpine Bike route introduced us to the rhythm of the week: taxing climbs that wind up the mountainside, often taking us above the treeline so we could see peaks all around. The trails then flowed, weaved, and wound along the mountainsides, leading us to small villages where we’d sometimes stop to explore.

As we rode, Myriam would share stories about the region. I learned about the black cows, famous for their duelling that would result in one cow of each pasture being crowned the ‘queen’. They each wear beautiful leather collars that carry impressively heavy bells, which can often be seen as decoration in homes and businesses in the region, so high is the pride in these beasts. It was fascinating to learn about this tradition and see the pride the locals have in their livestock.

There is also truly unique cultural history and quirky festivals that still happen within certain regions each year. Fasnacht Carnival, for instance, is a fascinating winter festival in the Lötschental, where locals become Tschäggättä, wearing frightening wooden masks and costumes to chase away winter spirits. As we ride throughout the region, we see some of these masks outside of houses, locals proudly displaying their Valais heritage.

In addition to the cultural stories, every valley also has its own distinct culinary traditions, with local wine and cheese being particularly significant. Depending on where the cows graze, the cheese will be slightly different – there are no generic supermarket cheeses being served in the small villages of Valais! We bought fresh apricots at roadside stalls, and the hotels we stayed in served us local products every night.

From bakeries and coffee shops before the ride begins, to honesty box refreshments found in remote places, to some truly impressive food venues right beside the trail, this ride had the perfect amount of local stops. One memorable break was the newly opened terrace at the top of the Lauchernalp cable car, where we decided to take in the views with some refreshments before starting our tour. From the terrace, we could look out over the Lötschen Valley up to the Lötschenlücke and across to the mighty Bietschhorn, side views of the Weisshorn and Dent Blanche. Velvety coffees with grand views followed by an exciting ride is a lifestyle I could get used to.

Each day presented a new challenge and a new vista. The season had been strange this year, and we encountered all four seasons in our week – from glorious sunshine through to snow traverses. For me, this was ideal, showing us the immense beauty of nature in Valais from all different perspectives. On the final stage near Val d’Anniviers, we reached an altitude of over 2800m, where snow still clung to the northern flanks. It was a magical sight, and we delighted at the contrast from the summer weather in the valley we had just climbed from.

The riding itself was a thrilling blend of high alpine expanses and technical forest descents. Each climb took us higher, offering panoramic views of jagged peaks and glacier-fed valleys. At times, the trails would snake along narrow ridges, providing heart-pounding exposure to sheer drop-offs. Then, as we descended, the terrain would shift – the open alpine meadows giving way to dense forests, where the trails became rooty and technical, demanding precision and skill. These transitions kept the riding fresh and exciting, and I could feel my confidence growing with each new challenge. When we encountered rougher terrain or technical aspects, Myriam would talk me through the line choices, elevating my mountain biking from someone who simply drops in and ‘hopes for the best’, to someone who can select a more elegant line. A few times, my attempts backfired and I went over the bars or into the grass, but I have always maintained that if you aren’t failing, you aren’t really trying. Occasionally the climbs became so steep we needed to push our bikes, and I secretly love a good hike-a-bike – they make me feel strong, and keeping pace with an elite rider like Myriam up these heart-pounding segments was genuinely fun.

Stage four, from Grächen to Brig, was one of the longest trails in our challenge, stands out in my memory. We had just completed a steep climb, and the trail levelled out, offering a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks. The sun was shining, and we could see for miles. The descent that followed was one of the most technical I had ever attempted. It started with a series of tight switchbacks on loose gravel, requiring careful braking and balance. As we entered the forest, the trail became even more challenging. Roots and rocks jutted out, forcing us to pick our lines carefully. Myriam led the way, her riding smooth and controlled. I followed her, gaining confidence with each turn. By the time we reached the bottom, I was exhilarated and eager for more.

These slightly more technical segments are what make the entire route network so rewarding – riders of all levels will be able to enjoy these trails, and depending on your own pace, you can push your riding level, or relax and just enjoy the flow.

Valais is not just about the riding; it’s also about the cultural and culinary experiences along the way. We were lucky with one of our lunch stops on the trail – in the small village of Feselalpe, in Leukerbad, there is an old restaurant called Trächu Hittu, which had recently been taken over by new owners who are passionate about local food. We had the best Cholera pie – a Valais specialty – accompanied by salad made entirely from their own garden, and washed down with homemade iced tea. A rainstorm came just as we sat down, encouraging us to linger for a dessert of apricot tart while we waited for the clouds to break so we could resume our ride in the sun. It was so perfect that it felt meant to be, and potentially one of the best refuels I’ve ever had on a bike ride – anywhere.

As always, the descents are the reward for the climbs. Each day, we ripped to lower altitudes with big grins on our faces. I’d always reach the valley floor or come screaming into the village with white knuckles and a sense of astonishment at how much altitude we just dropped in a single, unbroken track. One particular descent into the village of Blatten, in Lötschental, was unforgettable. The trail was a mix of loose gravel, tight switchbacks, and rooty sections that tested my skills and nerve. By the time we reached the bottom, I was buzzing with adrenaline and pride.

The physical demands of the trail were complemented by the beauty and serenity of the landscape.

Each climb was a test of endurance, each descent a thrill of skill, but in between, there were moments of pure tranquillity. Riding through alpine meadows dotted with wildflowers, hearing the distant chime of cowbells, and breathing in the crisp mountain air made every moment special. The trails themselves were a marvel of engineering, seamlessly blending with the natural surroundings and offering a continuous flow of excitement and challenge. And I would be remiss not to mention the world-class public transportation network as well as gondolas, cable cars, and funiculars that all take bicycles (even e-bikes!) which, when used, take out the longest climbs, letting riders simply enjoy the best of the trails.

We finished each ride in the afternoon, cycling to the doorstep of a small hotel where we could shower the dirt from the trail off, and then stretch our legs in the village to explore a little on foot. We visited museums, castles, bustling plazas, and serene lakeshores. The impressive Stockalper’s Palace in Brig was a highlight – I love feeling like I’m stepping back in history, imagining all of the lives that these Alps have witnessed.

One of the most rewarding aspects of this trip was the friendship and support we shared. Mountain biking can be intimidating, especially in a challenging environment like the Swiss Alps. But having a fellow female rider by my side made all the difference. We celebrated each other’s successes, encouraged each other through tough sections, and shared countless laughs along the way. It was a reminder that adventure is always better when shared, and that the bonds forged on the trails are as meaningful as the rides themselves.

Although mountain biking, like many adventure sports, has traditionally been male-dominated, the tide is rapidly shifting, and it’s crucial to see more women represented, more women riding, and more women sharing their stories. Throughout our ride, Myriam and I discussed the importance of visibility. We talked about the barriers women face in outdoor sports, from lack of representation to gender-specific gear, and how sharing our experiences can inspire change. Learning from someone who has been in the industry for so long, and attained such a high level in Switzerland, was really inspiring for me.

Riding with Myriam was a powerful reminder of how vital it is to have female role models in the outdoor industry. Her knowledge, skill, and passion for mountain biking were inspiring. She knew every trail, every turn, and her ability to navigate the technical sections with ease was something I aspired to. Her encouragement and support throughout the week helped me push my boundaries and gain confidence. By the end of our journey, I felt a profound sense of accomplishment and a renewed commitment to advocating for more women in mountain biking.

Our final ride took us to Grimentz in Val d’Anniviers, a picturesque village with wooden chalets adorned with colourful geraniums. The final hours of the ride had been an incredible descent, starting with alpine switchbacks above the Moiry Dam, then finally riding across it – a truly immense landscape above the sparkling water. We rode fast on the doubletrack descent from the dam towards town, and as we rolled to a stop, I felt a pang of sadness that our adventure was coming to an end. But I also felt a deep sense of fulfilment and gratitude.

This wasn’t an endurance event – it was never intended to be. Instead, it was a chance to meet new people, develop new skills, and enjoy the most wonderful mountains in Europe. The region of Valais had once again captured my heart, and I knew I would return, not just for the trails, but for the sense of freedom and exhilaration that only the mountains can provide.

The Valais Alpine Bike route is more than just a trail; it’s a journey through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the world. It’s a test of skill and endurance, but it’s also a celebration of nature and the joy of riding.