Nili Lotan’s business is thriving because women actually wear—make that live in—her clothes. Nonchalant, untrendy daywear is her m.o., from oversize cashmere knits to baggy army pants and excellent shirting, all of which make up the day-to-day, grab-and-go wardrobes of her customers in New York, Paris, and beyond. Lotan is so deliberately averse to trends and so dedicated to making anonymous clothes (unless you’re an NL superfan, you won’t immediately recognize a button-down or blazer as being hers) that her rapid growth is all the more impressive. She cares about the just-right slouch of a pant and gestural details like balloon sleeves and curved hemlines, which move with your body as opposed to restricting it.

Eveningwear hasn’t really been Lotan’s thing. Her slip dresses have been a consistent top seller for years, and she now offers them in a range of styles, lengths, and colors (plus camisoles and skirts in the same spirit). They’re great for weddings, but most girls wear them during the day with sneakers and denim jackets. Spring 2019 marks Lotan’s first major experiment in real-deal, black-tie-worthy evening. Editors who spent most of New York Fashion Week in a suit will be immediately drawn to the first look: a gently structured blazer in liquid black satin. Despite its relative simplicity—black suits are a dime a dozen these days—Lotan’s felt distinctly “hers” thanks to a tasseled cord wrapped around the waist and the long, raw-edged satin skirt she styled with it. Several looks came in the same high-gloss material: long-sleeved blouses, paisley harem pants, no-frills button-downs. Unsurprisingly, there were zero gowns.