Nili Lotan isn’t one for specific references, so it was a surprise to hear that Fall 2019 had a single jumping-off point: While she was visiting the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, she came upon a photo of a woman in polka dots and pinstripes, which became two of the main prints in the collection. There were notes of Saint Laurent elsewhere, too: in the tie-neck blouses, the expanded tailoring, the little button-front vests.

If Diane Keaton doesn’t know about Lotan, someone should tell her. Photos of the actress in her signature ’70s suits and ties were on Lotan’s moodboard. (There was a photo of Lauren Hutton, too; Lotan said she admired both women for ignoring trends and dressing with confidence.) Keaton’s style is a bit different now, and she’s been sharing it on Instagram in a series of outfit posts: mostly black suits and dresses, thick belts, platform boots, and wide-brim hats. It’s a bit more goth than Lotan’s vibe, but we have a feeling she’d be really into the three-piece suits and high-rise leather trousers.

Since Lotan reorganized her business last season—she now has a core line called NL, reserved for the army pants, sweatshirts, and slip dresses women buy year-round—she’s been able to explore new garments, often within the realm of “casual luxe” dressing. For Fall, she’s expanding her leather offering with lizard-embossed blazers and pants; she designed a few handfuls of “dinner blouses” in hand-beaded silk or glossy jacquard; and she’s experimenting with prints, like the zebra stripe on a velvet coat.