Husband and wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier are the epitomes of the yin-yang dynamics at play chez Jil Sander. He is intense and inquisitive, mostly dressed in black; she is angelic and luminous, mostly dressed in neutrals. A similar dialogue of codependent opposites runs through the collections they design, a balancing act of precision and grace, severity and indulgence.

Having been appointed as creative directors in 2017, their vision for Jil Sander is evolving with confidence. A few unnecessary hard edges have been cleverly smoothed, and Pre-Fall proved to be a rather serene negotiation between restraint and release. Tinged with an artsy appreciation for craft and a mindful, cultivated attitude, their version of the label’s minimalist roots is progressively becoming warmer and more expressive. Even a certain sensuality and a fluidity, aspects not usually associated with such rigorous aesthetics, are now creeping in—obviously seen through disciplined eyes.

Cases in point were the feminine lines of the décolletages, borrowed from corsetry and delicately lined with inconspicuous embroideries. Heart-shaped and graceful, they gave linear, elongated shapes a touch of softness, as in a black high-waisted ruched slipdress, or on a long off-white pinafore, worn with a contrasting thick black turtleneck. Jewelry was another seductive touch: Waists were cinched with thin belts featuring round silver buckles, and the angular lines of coats and sharp-cut blazers were decorated with bold jewel-like silver buttons. Along the same subtly imaginative lines, the hem of a slender black overcoat and the scalloped edges of a ruched white blouse were laser-cut into feminine broderie anglaise motifs. A skirt suit was padded and stitched with an abstract floral motif, while an ensemble in soft pink satin had a luscious, almost liquid finish.