Clare Waight Keller has to cover all Givenchy bases—from women’s daywear and eveningwear to men’s suiting to utilitarian sportswear—in her pre-fall collection. We started talking about the last category first. “Arctic surfing, volcanic surfing....” I had to double-check I’d heard her right. “Yes, it’s kind of extraordinary, these amazing things people do. It’s about being with this extremeness of nature. So I’ve been using these membrane fabrics and layers; these permeable fabrics, some of which are organic and recycled,” she added. “These new fabrics have to go through so much testing to get them to market, so it takes a little longer.” She pointed out a khaki green printed recycled polar fleece and crisp, neatly tailored organic cotton shirts.

Designing to be more mindful of Givenchy’s environmental impact is, she says, “very much top of mind.” One of the ways she’s tackling the issue is by aiming to build more versatility and longevity into her collections. “We need to wear our clothes for longer. It’s the throwaway aspect [of fashion] which is destructive. So the thought process, particularly in women’s, is to have a quieter sense of permanence. And I like the idea that so many of the pieces can be relayered.”